Ralph Smith Photography

Video–Italy

2011-10-04T15:21:00.006-05:00

Graffiti. It’s the dominant visual image upon arrival at any train station in Italy. It's not surprising, since the first examples of graffiti could be found in Ancient Greece and the Roman Empire.

During a recent trip to Italy, and with his nifty Sony NEX5 in hand, Ralph shot the daily Italian way of life from the vantage point of a visitor: from scenes of the street performers to those with the concert master; from the serene landscape passing by to the fishmonger making a sale. It was photo editor, Steve Henderson’s task to organize the footage and transform it into a coherent journey.

“I chose to edit in linear fashion, from the rapid and dramatic first impressions upon arrival at the train station, to quiet walks in the streets, dining at restaurants, the busy markets, and more. I want everyone to enjoy the journey vicariously and imagine that the stills at the end are those that you could have taken yourself,” says Steve.

The accompanying Vivaldi Concerto is a lively complement to the joyful atmosphere. The lute solo echoes the gentle flow of the Venetian waters towards the ending. Enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ZSe40Q477k

Internship at the studio - guest post by Emilia Harris

2011-08-26T10:26:00.001-05:00

Trannequins

I have visited Ralph Smith Photography many times for fun parties, graduations and other events, but last summer I was fortunate to experience the working side of the studio. I was the studio intern for about three months. I am a communications student majoring in photojournalism and could think of no better place to hone my skills with a lens and develop my creative vision.

“Mr. Ralph”, as I grew up calling him, showed me the ropes by engaging me in every part of the business. His acute attention to detail and commitment to producing the highest quality images have gained him recognition beyond Texas. I worked directly with Mr. Ralph and his accomplished staff, advertising directors, food stylists, videographers, editors and chefs. On a typical day at the studio I could be preparing equipment for the sets, grocery shopping, running errands, ironing linens, assisting food stylists, breaking down sets, cleaning up, observing post-production and learning from the editorial staff. It’s nothing like working at a 9 to 5 office where one files papers and answers phones!

Mr. Ralph’s staff have a great attitude and always helped me along the way. Sometimes we even got to be on the other side of the lens. Our videographer’s hands are part-time models! One day while working on an assignment for HEB’s “My Cup of Tea” I was asked to pose drinking a cup of tea. The artistic director liked the shot and now my profile is on the side of the box! Once the tea hit the shelves, HEB sales doubled because my mother, grandmother, aunts, and godmother bought them in bulk. My mother is the store’s nightmare – she is the one that constantly turns the boxes so that my side is facing the front!

Although less frequent than work at the studio, the shoots on location are always an adventure and just as much of a learning experience. Shooting on location offers different challenges such as hauling heavy gear, dealing with tricky lighting situations, uncooperative subject matter, and scheduling.

My experience at the studio was never dull. During down time, I was given assignments and encouraged to shoot. I was always challenged to think ahead and problem-solve, and then I was given the chance to do the job. Critique of my work was always constructive and helpful.

This summer I went through a week-long try-out for a job at the university newspaper, The Daily Texan. I was hired and many of my photos from various assignments have been published on line and in hard copy. I’m sharing a few of them here. I am very thankful to Mr. Ralph and his staff for the invaluable hands-on training. You guys rock!

Tree Doctor

Valero

Volleyball

Food photography

2011-08-01T18:06:00.001-05:00

We’re experts at presenting culinary delicacies in the most appealing way! It’s all about our creative vision and the best ingredients, appropriate props, artful arrangement, the stylist, patience, experimenting, lighting, state-of-the-art equipment, focusing, testing, critiquing, editing, perfection.

Bon Appetit!

So long Happy Hour!

2011-07-11T12:20:00.001-05:00

Just as the Houston Museum of Natural Science was preparing to announce a naming competition for their new corpse flower, our very own photo editor-turned-acrobat Mario Pocoroba was balancing on ladder and roof in an effort to document the gradual passing of our agave plant, Happy Hour.

“I couldn't let a once-in-a-12-year event like this pass without getting a couple cheesy shots on my cell phone as the granddaddy Agave reaches its demise...” he says, “And let me tell ya' – damned hard to hold a cell phone steady on the end of a 15' pole!”

As awkward and difficult as it was to shoot, we now have an excellent bird’s-eye-view of the agave’s illustrious inflorescence (clusters of flowers); its mighty spike that measured about 30 feet in height; and complex arrangement of its first and only flowering.

Plants such as our agave live between 10 and 30 years. At maturity it prepares for what is known as a “big bang” reproduction. Only occurring once and in the grandest fashion, it sacrifices its being by sending up a spike upon which a brilliant enormous “cyme” of closely-knit yellow flowers bloom.

Languishing in its corner for several weeks, our agave’s sacrifice is similar to ones made by Pacific salmon, cicadas and butterflies. Its death is bittersweet, but in its place are several healthy pups…and the cycle begins!

Melons galore for July 4th!

2011-07-04T13:25:00.001-05:00

What’s more synonymous with the Fourth of July than a juicy, ripe and sweet watermelon! Aside from providing us with an abundance of a variety of fruits, vegetables and herbs that we often use in our photo shoots, our extensive organic garden on the studio grounds never ceases to amaze.

Last week we harvested our giant watermelon…see for yourself before Dee drops it:

No ‘personal’ watermelon here… this big boy weighed in at nearly 40lbs! Its succulent, rosy flesh treated our clients, staff, and darling summer intern, Celeste (seen digging in - top photo) for several days.

Also deserving a mention is this golden beauty below. Yes, summer has arrived and we wish you a fun-filled Independence Day and a season of great abundance!

Sunny meadow

2011-06-28T15:46:00.001-05:00

A trip to Santa Barbara wine country last year introduced us to Solvang, a small town of Danish heritage. Following intense wine tastings all day, the crisp fall air inspired early morning walks that helped clear the brain.

Once past the gift shops and boutiques, and near the edge of town we found Mission Santa Ines and an olive grove. A narrow footpath led across a tiny tree-lined creek to a historic grist mill. The view of the fog quietly lifting from the meadow and farm houses was beautiful.

Solvang, fittingly named, means “sunny meadow” in Danish.

By-Catch Dinner and Lunch, May 6th and 7th

2011-04-26T16:09:00.001-05:00

WELCOME EARTHLINGS.

Wait, sorry... that didn't come out as expected.

We have another exciting opportunity for you to include yourself in a dinner OR lunch with the faboosh Justin Yu and the wonky Justin Vann at 7:00pm on May 6th and 12:00pm on May 7th at yours truly -- Ralph Smith Photography.

What is by-catch, you ask? Well, Jim Gossen and PJ Stoops of Louisiana Foods have been doing an awesome job supplying Houston with local, fresh fish straight from the gulf... as well as supplying us with some littler known sea creatures along the way. This dinner is to pay homage to those things that come in as a "by-catch" to the main product... those often unnoticed and under-appreciated life-forms that are caught alongside their more well-known and popular brothers.

The menu is not set, as Justin Yu will not know EXACTLY what he has to work with until a few days before the event. Exciting, no? Let's watch Mr. Yu. sweat.

Justin Vann will be pairing his idea of by-catch drinks to the event -- or, libations that he feels often go unnoticed as well. He might even tell a joke or two (make that a probably).

Once again, we will be calling on many of the talents in Houston to help us. The wonderful Karen Mann will be making a bread course and desserts. David Buehrer and Ecky Prabanto of Greenway Coffee and Tea will be working a little brown magic, and Chris Frankel of Anvil Bar and Refuge will be helping you into your warm and fuzzy place before seating.

The price for this fabulous meal is $95 not including gratuity, and payment will be made IN CASH the night (or day!) of the meal.

If you would like in on this good-times event, please email which day you would like to sit, as well as the name(s) of your guest(s) to adriennebyard@gmail.com and we will put you on the list.

Thanks so much, and we can't wait to see you there!!

BOOM

Belgian Beer Dinner, a Recap

2011-04-04T14:14:00.001-05:00

Image by Ralph Smith

Well, the Belgian Beer Dinner held at Ralph Smith Photography on March 26th and 27th is over. Justin Yu, Justin Vann, and I would like to thank everyone who helped, dined, and had a good time. Many people contributed to making this dinner a success, and we're thankful to have had the help!

We'd like to thank My Table Magazine for their beautiful write-up of the dinner and for the kind words about Ralph and the studio. We'd also like to thank those involved in the twitterverse for saying such nice things about us. We're trying not to be all "golly gee shucks" about it, but we can't help but blush!

So, until the next dinner rolls around (and yes, stay tuned for updates on the "next one"), here's some images we took with a polaroid during Sunday's dinner. Let's hope they satisfy your urge to relive the moment until another dinner is presented. THANKS, DUDES AND DUDETTES!! (click the image for fullsize!!!)

Agave-gate 2011 Update: Still up to her tricks

2011-03-29T14:52:00.001-05:00

Happy Hour, our reckless Agave plant, with a censor bar placed over something indubitably too risqué for our viewers.

WAIT A SECOND.... That's Ruthie Miller's CARDIGAN. HAPPY HOUR... you don't even have arms!

Well, at least you can see by her growing stalk that she won't be stealing other people's personal possessions for much longer.

It's been 11 days since we last updated you on Happy Hour, and I'm sure you've been drinking tequila at the edge of your seats waiting for it.

Happy Hour is continuing her hasty demise towards the big agave resort in the sky, and showing promise that she will give one final bow with a single bloom at the end of her days. At least we think she blooms. Let's hope so, because we'd hack the damn troublemaker down if it weren't for this promise.

We came out to say hello and offer her some tortilla chips this morning when we realized that she had gotten a hold of a cardigan that Culture Map writer Ruthie Miller had left at our studio during this past weekend's Belgian Beer Dinner with Justin Yu and Justin Vann. We don't know exactly how this happened since she's basically an inanimate object, but I guess stranger things have happened in Houston. Either way, if this were Nordstrom's, Happy Hour would have been towed away in agave cuffs and taken to the sheriff's office for shifty looks of utter bewilderment.

As you can see, her stalk is growing quite large -- as is her ego. We expect a few more weeks to go by before we get an actual flower from her, but maybe by then we can all make peace. Until then, I'm locking Ruthie's sweater up. I don't trust that plant.

BREAKING Agave-gate, 2011

2011-03-18T14:58:00.000-05:00

Happy Hour, quite pleased with her most recent shanking.

Apparently you can make a didgeridoo out of the stem once she dies. Update on didgeridoo-making later.

Our Agave plant, Happy Hour, has begun the process of flowering. While this might immediately sound "ooh" and "aah" inducing, hold back your celebratory wails... Happy Hour is dying.

That's right my precious perennials. This beautiful beast of a plant only flowers once during her lifetime, and her time is coming. We think she's an American Agave, but we really don't know for sure. I guess we should have taken more time to get to know her now that Happy Hour is entering the nightcap stage of her life.

We conducted a short interview, in which she requested to go out "with more dignity than that showboating harlot Lois" did during her much anticipated public death in 2010. We think Happy Hour has spent a lot of time alone. I'm guessing it's because her stabby nature kept people away. In fact, right before I took these photos, Happy Hour decided it was a good idea to stab me right in the shin, no lie. If my leg turns into hulk-leg, I'll let you know.

We will keep you updated on the flowering process which should take about a month. Until then, we're going to try to stay clear of her war path, since it seems that she's trying to shank everyone on her way out.

'Till then, Happy Hour.

Sweet and Savory

2011-03-11T15:17:00.001-06:00

Within a few short years of moving to Houston Rebecca Masson has become the darling of pastry chefs. Known as the “Sugar Fairy” by her colleagues, Rebecca’s name has become synonymous with ‘fluffernutters’, ‘candy cap icebox pie’, and most importantly Lucky Dog Rescue, a local dog adoption organization for which she is a principal supporter and spokesperson.

After the successes of A Sweet Summer Soirée and Beyond Sweet (both events took place at the studio), Rebecca has once again gathered a group of outstanding young chefs to create a unique and distinctive menu this spring benefitting Lucky Dog Rescue. “Sweet and Savory” will take place in our picturesque courtyard on Sunday, April 10, 2011 at 4pm.

Ryan Pera of Revival Market, Philip Speer of Uchi and Uchiko in Austin (with Rebecca in photo above), Seth Siegal-Gardner of Kata Robata (see Seth’s spectacular dessert scape at Beyond Sweet below), Chris Leung of Bootsie’s in Tomball, Tracie Hartman, and Matt Marcus of the Eatsie Boys will each present part of the seven course dinner.

Also on board in support of the cause are Whole Foods Market, Saint Arnold Brewing Company, Hudson Ferus Vodka and Houston Wine Merchant. To view the invitation and secure your seat, make a donation to Lucky Dog Rescue. Dinner is limited to 70 guests so act quickly!

Pruning Vines at Stout Vineyards

2011-03-07T16:15:00.000-06:00

Master Sommelier Guy Stout, posing for a quick portrait in his vineyard

Workers pruning the vines

The pruned vines were bundled into piles for easier removal

Friends of Stout Vineyards and members of UH's wine club helped in the process

Pruning vines might not seem like a ton of fun for you, but for many it was an opportunity to become better acquainted to the vines that produce the grapes we love so dear.

After spending the night at the lovely and modest Blanco County Inn (at a steal of $93 a night), I headed to Master Sommelier Guy Stout's vineyard at 8:30am to get to pickin'.

Ok, I'd be lying if I tried to pass myself off as some trophy-holder in vineyard labor, but I DID take some photographs of the process. The hired (and probably more experienced) workers did the cutting, while the volunteer group worked to clear the lines of anything that was trimmed. We worked diligently into lunchtime, where the pot of chili and sandwiches established the ground for a necessary break from the work and high winds that were blowing through the hill country that morning.

The group from UH was refreshing - it's not often you run across mostly young people who were more concerned with the taste and history of what they were drinking as opposed to the effect it tends to have on us. They smiled all morning through the wind, and looked forward to getting back into the field.

My company and I left shortly after lunch, saving the rest of the work for those who offered themselves through to the end. It was a great experience, and one which will stick with me for quite a while... at least for the next few bottles of wine.

Happy Texas Independence Day, Y'all!

2011-03-02T13:47:00.002-06:00

©Ralph Smith for Brick House Tavern + Tap, 2010

We love Texas, and we're not ashamed to admit it. "Texas: It's like a whole other country" made itself a popular domestic advertising slogan for a reason. Us Texans are proud to be here, and while there are many reasons to be proud -- we might show a slight preference to our state's cookin'!

Many Texas-area food people have professed their undying love for throwing some Texas-raised brisket on a slice of wonderbread. Onions, jalapeños and pickles are optional, but we might call you a yankee if you try and throw barbecue sauce on there. MIGHT.

The love for barbecue is deep, as is the literature on it. Listed are a couple of our favorites -- as written by fellow lovers of Texas barbecue. Yeehaw, partna!

Robb Walsh's Legends of Texas Barbecue Cookbook

Wyatt McSpadden's Photo Book of Local Texas Barbecue Joints

Announcing a Belgian Beer Dinner by Justin Yu and Justin Vann

2011-02-24T13:55:00.002-06:00

We're at it again. March 26th and 27th have been set aside at the studio to host a Belgian beer dinner by chef Justin Yu and sommelier Justin Vann. The dinner SOLD OUT just over an hour after veteran food writer Alison Cook posted about it on her blog. The talented Dann Miller designed us this rad label to go along with it. If you're one of the lucky ones who got in, we cheers to you! See you in March!

5226 Elm

2011-02-16T14:27:00.003-06:00

We told you we like to party! Monsterville Horton hosted his 2007 Cabernet dinner at the studio, and we shot this time-lapse video during the event. Hope to see you here next time!

Haven

2011-02-02T19:54:00.005-06:00

In a little over a year of operation, Haven restaurant has garnered much local and national recognition. An impressive wine list, farm-to-table Texas fare and youthful energy reside in this elegant 'green' building.
Check out our latest video featuring Haven:

Heritage dinner series

2010-12-02T20:05:00.001-06:00

Following the success of his Tenacity dinner at the studio last year, Chef Randy Rucker of Bootsie’s Heritage Café in Tomball will once again be showcasing his culinary ingenuity on Tuesday, December 7. Of special interest will be the wine pairings of Certified Sommelier William Meznarich.

From Randy:

HERITAGE dinner series
Tuesday 12.7.2010
7ish
Ralph Smith Photography Studio 5226 Elm Street, Houston

150/person (includes wine pairing & tax but not gratuity)
We are very happy to return to Ralph’s Studio for another great evening of food & wine but we are even happier to announce that Houston’s own William Meznarich (CSW & Certified Sommelier) will be providing the wine service for the evening.
the dinner will begin with 3 separate amuse bouche before heading into the first course…

menu
live grass shrimp from bolivar peninsula & nasturtium leaves, stems & flowers
crudo w/ coastal purslane & tomatillos
pastiche “formed from disparate sources” of winter vegetables, roots & stems
chawan mushi made from 5 month aged gulf bonita & creamer peas
buckwheat trofie w/ powdered smoked tuna, borage & its flowers
porridge of steel cut oats w/ lichen, wood sorrel & roasted water fowl bouillon
fish poached in bronzed whey & lacquered w/ duck skin puree
venison neck & boudin made from its heart w/ braised icicle radish
poached apples smoked in hay w/ celery, raisin, pickled mustard seeds & puffed black rice
grapefruit w/ carrot consommé, cream cheese sorbet, sesame seed puree, cocoa powder jelly & thyme meringue
fudge cake w/ orange ganache, chocolate plaque, buttermilk, pumpkin & orange-clove tea jelly
fraindises…
sour cream ganache & matcha macaroon
miso marshmallows

wine pairings will be posted asap!!

make reservations thru Bootsie’s 281 516 9699

Farewell to Stone Fruits with chef LJ Wiley

2010-09-01T13:03:00.001-05:00

To whet your appetite…

spiced peach gazpacho with local peach bellini…littleneck clams, plum sake and pluots…nectarine pesto…sour cherry manhattans…

the menu is in its final stages so mark your calendars!

Chef LJ Wiley, executive chef and partner of Yelapa Playa Mexicana and pastry chef Rebecca Masson will be celebrating the end of stone fruit season with a ten-course dinner at the studio on Sunday, September 19 from 6 – 9p.m.

For reservations and more information please call 281-501-0391 or email yelaparestaurant@gmail.com.

Phoenicia

2010-08-13T12:30:00.001-05:00

These are busy and exciting times for the Tcholakian family. With roots in Armenia and Lebanon, immigrants Zohrab and Arpine introduced Houstonians to the vivid flavors of Middle Eastern cuisine. Their small but highly-praised Phoenicia Deli opened over thirty years ago in west Houston. Arpine’s spiced shawarma sandwiches quickly became popular and an import business flourished. They are now gearing up for two remarkable additions to their existing specialty foods market.

The original Phoenicia Deli is moving across the street to a corner of the commanding Phoenicia Foods building. Arpi’s Phoenicia Deli and coffee house (named in honor of the steadfast and energetic matriarch of the family, Arpine) is receiving its final touches and is set to open at the end of this month (call towards August 30th for more information 281.558.8225). Gleaming with new espresso machines, contemporary lighting and a beautiful glass panel, the deli will showcase Zohrab’s modern style. The olive tree, a prevalent image in the Mediterranean, is a favorite. Operating hours are: Mondays to Thursdays 7am-9pm; Fridays 7am-10pm; Saturdays 8am-10pm and Sundays 8am-9pm.

Here’s a peek at Arpi’s new deli:

In January, the opening of a second Phoenicia Foods will take Downtown Houston by storm! At One Park Place, a block away from Discovery Green, it will occupy over 28,000 square feet and satisfy the demand of inside-the-loopers! A Lebanese pita bread machine will produce fresh bread daily. The deli will be street side and visible through large glass windows. With its opening, residents of downtown will finally be able to shop for imported goods, fresh vegetables and grocery staples at a convenient location.

Stay tuned for opening dates on their website (linked above) or on twitter @PhoeniciaFoods.

Branch Water Tavern - "Action!"

2010-06-17T13:25:00.012-05:00

We are pleased to announce that our studio capabilities now include full HD videography. Here's our recent promo reel of Branch Water Tavern, a new upscale eatery on Shepherd Drive in Houston. All footage was shot at the restaurant with a full house in attendance.

Videography and editing by Steve Henderson of Ralph Smith Photography.

A Sweet Summer Soirée

2010-05-20T21:20:00.001-05:00

SWEET SUMMER SOIRÉE
An Extraordinary Dessert Tasting Featuring Awarding-Winning Pastry Chef Rebecca Masson, Benefiting Lucky Dog Rescue

HOUSTON, TX – Save the date! On June 6th at 4 pm, join award-winning pastry chef Rebecca Masson, Lucky Dog Rescue, and renowned food photographer Ralph Smith for “A Sweet Summer Soirée,” an extraordinary dessert tasting benefiting Lucky Dog Rescue, a 501c3 charity dedicated to providing rescue services, vet care, foster care and adoptive placement to stray and abandoned dogs. The gorgeous lily pond courtyard at the studios of Ralph Smith Photography, located at 5226 Elm Street in Houston, will provide a picture perfect setting for the al fresco event. Tickets are $75 per person and may be purchased at www.luckyrescue.org.
“My dog Betty is a rescue pup, so this charity is very near and dear to my heart,” says Masson. “I’m thrilled to be associated with Lucky Dog and happy to help in any way.” According to Lucky Dog Rescue founder Millicent Gerdes, the event will provide much-needed funds to rescue dogs that would otherwise not survive.
Guests will enjoy a six-course plated tasting menu, including a salad course created by Chef Tracie Hartman, cheese course presented by the Houston Dairy Maids and four dessert courses by Masson, including her award-winning Candy Cap Mushroom Ice Box Pie and Maple Leaf Ice Cream Sandwich. Also on the menu: Masson’s Chocolate Beet Cake Baked Alaska with Homemade Strawberry Sour Cream Ice Cream and Italian Meringue, and Milk Chocolate Peanut Butter “Candy Bar.” Guests will enjoy Perrier Jouet Gran Brut Champagne, Hudson Ferus Vodka cocktails and additional wine pairings to compliment each course.
Masson, a graduate of Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, honed her pastry skills at such acclaimed venues as Hotel le Bristol, a five-star hotel and one of Paris’ finest, as well as New York’s famed db Bistro Moderne, Daniel, The Biltmore Room and The Red Cat. In Houston, Masson’s desserts at 17 Restaurant earned her rave reviews and “Pastry Chef of the Year” recognition. Masson also worked as pastry chef for Ibiza and Catalan restaurants. More recently Masson has created signature dessert menus for some of Houston’s top restaurants, including Stella Sola, Gravitas, Canopy and Bailey’s American Grille. Masson plans to open a dessert restaurant in Houston in the not-too-distant future.

Rebecca Masson and a Baked Alaska

2010-04-25T21:46:00.001-05:00

Last year the studio was the venue for the first formal farm-to-table dinner, namely the FM150. Pastry chef Rebecca Masson wowed us all with this luscious dessert – individual Baked Alaskas. She incorporated roasted beet pulp into a chocolate cake and topped it with strawberry sour cream ice cream and toasted Italian meringue. It was heavenly!

Trained at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, Rebecca has honed her craft at several notable restaurants, including Restaurant Daniel in New York, and *17 and Ibiza in Houston. She is currently a restaurant consultant while she plans her next move. A fearless and respected participant in the Houston Chowhound Throwdowns, Rebecca found a way to incorporate mushrooms in a dessert for the recent ‘Shroom Throwdown. Her sensational Candy Cap Icebox Pie beat out nine prominent local chefs, all of them male! It was a sweet victory for a spirited but down-to-earth girl.

If you are interested in tasting Rebecca’s desserts, including the two mentioned above, stay tuned. Smith Photography will be the venue for a 6-course dinner and dessert tasting on Sunday, June 6. Details will be published soon!

OK Go

2010-03-30T08:03:00.001-05:00

Check out this inventive video by OK Go

This video is the Rube Goldberg Machine version of This Too Shall Pass from the album Of the Blue Colour of the Sky (2010). It was directed by James Frost, OK Go and Syyn Labs and produced by Shirley Moyers with funding from State Farm.

The video was filmed in a two story warehouse, in the Echo Park neighborhood of Los Angeles, CA. The "machine" was designed and built by the band, along with members of Syyn Labs (http://syynlabs.com/ ) over the course of several months. There is an in-depth behind-the-scenes look at the warehouse here: http://www.okgo.net/this-too-shall-pass-rube-goldberg-mac...

OK Go won a Grammy in 2007 for Best Short Form Music Video for Here it Goes Again.

Branch Water Tavern

2010-03-13T19:04:00.001-06:00

David Grossman and Evan Turner’s new tavern hosts a vibrant dining and bar scene on North Shepherd in Houston.

Artisanal beers, creative cocktails and a vast collection of American whiskeys are specialties at the bar… and decadent duck fat popcorn.

A boutique wine list assembled by sommelier and beverage director Evan Turner includes something for every adventurous Texas palate.

After graduating top of his class at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, Grossman gained experience at notable restaurants in San Francisco, New York and Houston.

Next week: from the menu at Branch Water Tavern.

Torta della Nonna from Villa Ferraia

2010-02-09T17:04:00.001-06:00

Everyone’s Nonna in Italy makes the traditional family Torta. Torta della Nonna, or Grandmother’s Cake, has as many variations as there are grandmothers! Here’s a tasty version I enjoyed during my assignment at Villa Ferraia in Tuscany. It consists of a delicate crust and light lemony custard filling. Pine nuts on top toast during baking and add a nice crunch.

Torta della Nonna

14 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened (200g)

1 cup sugar (200g)

2 eggs

2 cups all-purpose flour (200g)

pinch of salt

Custard filling (recipe below)

3 tablespoons pine nuts (20g)

Lightly grease a 9-inch (24cm) tart pan with butter. Sprinkle with a little flour and set aside. Beat butter and sugar until creamy. Add eggs, one at a time and beat until blended. Add flour and salt and mix until flour is just incorporated. The mixture will be quite sticky and you will use your fingers to place it in the pan. Sprinkle a little flour on the dough. Dipping your finger in additional flour every now and again, take one half of the dough and pat it on the bottom and up the sides of a 9-inch (24cm) tart pan. Pour only the amount of filling in the pastry shell until it is about 1/8” from the top of the pan. Any leftover filling is delicious on its own or with fresh fruit. Take the reserved half of the pastry and using your ‘floury’ hands, mold it into small, thin pieces and carefully place the pieces on top of the filling, overlapping it as you go. Seal the edges together. Sprinkle the top with pine nuts. Bake for about 45 minutes in a 350 – 375F oven, or until the top is nicely browned and the pine nuts are toasted. Cool. It can be served at room temperature but is best the next day after chilling in the refrigerator. Dust with confectioner’s sugar.

Custard filling:

5 egg yolks

5 tablespoons sugar (60g)

grated zest of ½ lemon

1-2 tablespoons lemon juice (15-30ml)

¼ cup all purpose flour (30g)

pinch salt

3¼ cup milk (¾ liter)

In a small bowl, beat the egg yolks and sugar together until pale and creamy. Add zest and lemon juice and blend. In another small bowl, blend flour with ¼ cup cold milk with a whisk until it’s smooth and there are no lumps. Over medium heat, heat the rest of the milk in a medium saucepan until small bubbles appear on the sides of the pan. Take a ladleful and add it to the egg yolk mixture to temper the eggs. Add the egg mixture to the hot milk and whisk to combine. Whisking continuously, add the flour mixture to the milk mixture and bring to a boil. Cook for 2 minutes and then remove from heat. Cool the custard filling by stirring occasionally to prevent a skin from forming. The custard will thicken as it cools.